If you want to buy fresh fish, go to Zhuang’s Fish Shop
Hualien Markets - Exclusive Interview with Zhuang's Fish
#ChongqingMarket
Text/ HUNG Tzu-Hsuan
Translation/ LIU Yi-Chun
Photography/ LEE Te-Mao, HUNG Tzu-Hsuan
Many traditional markets are closed on Mondays. Without the usual crowds and noises, the atmosphere was more relaxed. However, when you pass through the stalls and vendors in the quiet market, you can find a fish shop that works hard with full energy regardless of the seasons.
Once the phone rang, the owner silently started the engine, and went straight to Hualien Port with piles of boxes in the back. A few moments later, several shiny white Atlantic cutlassfish appeared at the stand. The large silver fish lined up on the table filled with snow-white ice just like silver ribbons. It’s like you can see them swimming gracefully in the water when you close your eyes.
A few customers passed by and asked the price of fish. “The fish was freshly caught. Its eyes are talking to you!” the owner said loudly and cheerfully.
The owner handled the Atlantic cutlassfish neatly. The silver ribbons slipped into the big plastic bags one by one with a rhythm. At this time, someone found a silver-red guest under the transparent cloth. “Oh that is a rosy seabass. It is expensive, so it needs to be protected.”
A young lady leaned forward out of curiosity. She took out her phone to take pictures of the ugly but cute puffy fish. “This is chub. It lives at the same depth as the rosy seabass. Its meat is very tender and can be steamed or boiled,” said the owner. “It looks so funny. I want to take pictures of it.” The lady asked while taking photos, “Will it be stinky? I'm afraid my children will refuse to eat it.”
“Do you know why fish stinks? Because it is not fresh.” Mr. Zhuang pointed at the weird big fat fish with vivid and shiny big eyes, and raised a proud smile. He told the lady, “As long as it is fresh, no matter how you cook it, it smells good.”
The partnership without physical contract
“If there are fishing boats going to sea, we will do business.” While being busy with serving the customers, Mr. Zhuang told us that unless there is a typhoon, he will not take a break. “We will open regardless of how many fish we got for sale. It doesn’t matter how many varieties of fish we got.”
Mr. Zhuang said that there is an intangible partnership between them and the fishing boats they cooperated with. As long as the fish landed ashore, they will buy them from the fishermen regardless of the size and variety.
“I used to purchase from amateurs, but now I also purchase from professional fishermen such as the boats that carry rosy seabass and blackmouth croaker. We have been working with them for six or seven years.” The delicate rosy seabass is a star in Hualien and Taitung. Only the experienced fishermen are able to catch them. The fish shops pick fishing boats, and the fishermen also pick the fish shop. Mr. Zhuang said, “When we were new in the business, no one sold rosy seabass and blackmouth croaker to us. We were new and inexperienced back then.”
The fishery industry is intense and busy. The key to a long-term partnership is the understanding between the fishermen and the fish shop. Another owner Mr. Yang is in charge of handling the fish products. He has to pick up the fish at the port whenever necessary. “We have to be considerate to each other. Everyone has their own job to do. For example, sometimes the fishermen had already worked all night; therefore, we tried not to let them wait for us so they could go home and take a rest. They might have to return to the sea later. They would also wait for us when we were stuck at the market. We must pick up the fish as soon as possible so we can sell them freshly at the stall, or send them to other cities and towns, even to other fish shops. We must put ourselves in others’ shoes. This is the only way to work together for a long term.”
A stable fish supply chain gives the fish shop endless excitement and it also challenges their flexibility. Zhuang’s Fish Shop is a small fish shop that does business in the Chongqing market in the morning, and goes to the evening market in the afternoon. In addition, they also deliver fish products throughout Taiwan.
“In fact, the market in Hualien is very small, so we need multiple sales channels.” After the 1999 Jiji earthquake, Zhuang’s family, who was in charge of the distribution of fish goods, learnt a personal and profound lesson which is “always sell the extra fish goods to other fish shops.” In this way, they will not be exploited. More sales channels, less exploitation.
“The more time you spent on negotiation, the less quality you got. There are no exceptions.”
The owner that treat himself as the customer
Mr. Zhuang is busy even when there are no customers around. He will clean up the light red bloody water on the table with both sponges and rags.
“It’s unpleasant to look at so I will clean it up when I have time.”
“I treat myself as a customer.” Mr. Zhuang said, “I don't like to talk much to customers, and I don't have the time and patience to do so. When I go shopping myself, I look for the fresh products. If it’s not fresh, I won’t buy it. That’s all.”
The credibility and reputation are built on the freshness of the products, and the decision is in the hands of consumers. The customers will notice the difference when they taste it. They will know.
“If the customers trust you, they will always come back to you.”
If you want to buy fresh fish, go to Zhuang’s Fish Shop
In a corner of the fish stall, there is crushed ice for customers to keep the fish fresh. Mr. Zhuang always shoveled ice with his bare hands. When asked, wouldn’t his hands hurt after working all day long? He straightened his face and said seriously, “My hand can be stabbed and scraped, but my fish can't!”
For example, the freshly caught grass shrimps should be preserved with crushed ice. Speaking of keeping fish fresh on ice, Mr. Zhuang couldn’t help but mumble, “Of course you have to treasure the fish you bought, they are such a gem.” Sometimes when he encountered customers who carried a lot of stuff and were inconvenient to carry extra ice, he would remind them to go home and put the fish in the fridge as soon as possible.
“I am also a customer myself, so I know you must make efforts to keep the quality. If you bought a product with poor quality, no matter how much effort you made, it didn’t matter. The quality is everything.”
“You must treasure and take good care of the product with good quality. That’s how you keep the score.”
With the care of the fish shop, these gifts from the ocean make every dining table delicious and splendid. Today, Zhuang’s Fish Shop already has its own fans who value the freshness and exquisiteness, and are willing to spend money on them.
“If you want to find fresh fish, just come to our fish shop!” said Mr. Zhuang, who turned around to handle a new batch of Atlantic cutlassfish.