A-Tzu’s Wild Vegetables Stall
Hualien Markets - Exclusive Interview with A-Tzu's Wild Vegetables Stall
#ChongqingMarket
Text/ HUNG Tzu-Hsuan
Translation/ LIU Yi-Chun
Photography/ HUNG Tzu-Hsuan
Cheer First, Talk Later
Paolyta-B, mineral water and betel nuts.
Under the simple and eye-catching hand-painted signboard, wild vegetables pile up into green and undulating waves.
Several neighbours gather around and chat passionately. They may lean or sit while having a plastic cup with Paolyta-B in hand. This is the early morning scene at A-Tzu’s Wild Vegetables Stall.
“We all drink in the early morning, not in the afternoon.”
“Oh, you started drinking in the early morning!” Chef Long, who went down the mountain for grocery shopping, skillfully stuffed the ingredients placed on the low wall into his rear compartment, pushed his hands over the low wall, and joined them.”
“This is life.”
“This is life. Have some breakfast first.”
Everyone has their own preferred recipe for mixing Paolyta-B, which is an important company in their work and life.
“She will add lemon, so she won’t get drunk easily,” A-Chu from the neighboring stall introduced everyone’s recipe enthusiastically.
Sister Mei-Li, who was leaning against the wall and eating snacks, heard the words and raised her Paolyta-B with lemon, saying that “Lemon is good for your health.”
“Most of the people will drink with water,” said A-Tzu, who prefers to add water.
“Some people will mix with milk, and only Golong Milk! Especially the strawberry flavor.” Sister A-Chu is obviously a fan of Paolyta-B with milk.
Sister Xue-Qin appeared just in time with some cold drinks, so there was Paolyta-B with Golong milk on the low wall, plus a smiling Sister with a helmet.
The group of people from different places gathered at A-Tzu’s Wild Vegetables Stall, happily chatting and making fun of each other. They raised plastic wine glasses with different colors.
“Enjoy your life. Cheers!”
The Day of Collecting Vegetables
“I always pick vegetables after closing the stall in the afternoon. I will go to the mountains or plains.” A-Tzu skillfully turned the vegetable leaves stocked on the white iron plate into green bouquets next to the pile of fat bamboo shoots.
“I will sell what I collect each day. I just jump in the car and casually search, picking whatever wild vegetables I find by the side of the road."
“Don’t pick the wild flowers on the side of the road, but the wild vegetables are okay,” added one of the elder sisters from the neighboring stall.
“Yes, just collect whatever sellable,” A-Tzu laughed out loud and added.
“When we go to the mountains, we will bring rice wine for the spirits in the mountains, informing them we’re here to collect the wild vegetables, hoping that they can bless us.”
After all, the gathering in the mountains is all destined.
“Sometimes I just happen to find a specific vegetable, but it might be removed by tomorrow. It's all destined, you never know.”
“The wild vegetables can't be planted. They must grow on their own. That is the flower of Crowndaisy. It is very tasty when deep-fried! Just deep-fried and sprinkled with pepper and salt.” Seeing the customers in front of the stall look at the green bouquets with curiosity, A-Tzu switched to business mode right away.
The random gathering life brings surprises to A-Tzu and, of course, occasionally scares.
“It's not easy to distinguish the land’s ownership. Sometimes we follow other people. Some landlords will ask me what I'm doing. I’ll tell them I’m collecting wild vegetables. Some landlords don’t mind at all. It's impossible to know who’s land it is from the outside so I usually just pick the vegetables directly.”
“We just pick wild vegetables. We won't go into the farm to avoid misunderstandings.” The elder Sister from the neighboring sister who silently greeted the customers added again.
“One time we went to collect Pacilo (breadfruit), we waited for a long time on the side of the road, and there was no one coming. The Pacilo kept falling. It's a pity. I really want to collect those!”
“Some landlords don’t allow wild vegetable gathering. You will be caught if you enter their fields, so you always have to be cautious when you pick vegetables. There are also unreasonable people. One time, I accidentally picked vegetables from the fallow land of rape flowers, and I got fined NT$ 6000. The landlord was upset and he wanted to sue me as well. The fine was so expensive!” A-Tzu still had lingering fears when talking about this incident that happened not long ago.
For the sake of life, also thanks to their insight of distinguishing natural gifts, they gather wild vegetables at the gray areas that they have found from experience and luck, to collect the taste that is gradually forgotten by modern society.
Make a Living with Local Advantages
“I used to be a hairdresser when I was a young lady. After I got married, I used to work at the construction site, at the office, or work as a cleaning lady at the restaurant in the middle of the night... Afterwards, I decided to start my own business.”
“I've been in the market for nearly 30 years. Before this building was built, I usually set up the stall on sidewalks, roadsides... wherever was vacant. At first, I didn't want to come inside of the building due to the rent. However, when I thought about setting up an umbrella, hiding from the police and all the troubles I encountered on the street, I decided to join the market eventually.”
“I am from Changbin, Taitung. I used to live by the sea. Now I also go to the seaside to collect some conch and sea vegetables... Taitung coastline is very beautiful, where there are mountains and seas.” Mentioned the knowledge of picking vegetables that she learned from childhood, A-Tzu recalled the memory of going up to the mountain with her father to harvest ginger: “When I was young, my father took us to the mountain to harvest ginger. We picked wild vegetables and cooked them on-site with a little ginger, rice and salt. You simply need a pot and some woods, then you can cook a delicious meal on the mountains.
“When living on a mountain depends on the mountain for a living, when living near the sea likewise depends on the sea. You can make a living with local advantages.”
As Long As You Are Happy
The drinking party is ongoing. Chef Long and A-Tzu keep making inappropriate jokes that are not suitable to jot down here.
“I’m pretty even with the mole!
“Don’t feel bad though, what else could you say?”
“What are you talking about, just leave now.”
“Hey life is impermanent, there is no afterlife. No, right? Where is your cup, fill up and cheers! I wish you good health, and have a baby soon.”
Cheers!
A few minutes later, Chef Long happily held his exquisite bulldog doll and reappeared: “Isn’t this dog pretty? It's incredible! Its weight is perfect for putting in the car. I can find a special one for you, the one that resembles your face.”
A-Tzu laughed out loud and yelled at him, “I don't want a bulldog doll without a red nose.”
“Whatever, as long as you’re happy,” said Sister Mei-Li, who threw another slice of lemon into her Paolyta-B.