“All good things come to those who wait.” - Mr. CHEN
Hualien Markets - Exclusive Interview with Chen Gao-Tien Butcher Shop
#ZhongshanMarket
#NeverGiveUpOnTheBusiness
#WarmheartedAndSentimental
July 6th, 2020
Text/ LI Shan
Translation/ LIU Yi-Chun
Photography/ Lee Te-Mao
Mr. Chen wears thick-rimmed glasses and plain black T-shirt. He asks the customers what dishes they plan to make, and then preparing the appropriate parts of the meat for them. Mr. Chen has been in the Zhongshan Market for nearly thirty five years. He moved to Hualien in the fifth grade of elementary school. His parents used to sell chicken in the market. He didn’t go to college like his siblings, because the tuition fee is too expensive; he decided to study at the “market university” instead. He learnt how to slaughter pigs and run the business from other vendors until one day his friends asked him if he’s interested in starting his own business at the Zhongshan Market. That’s the beginning of his career.
He builds connections with local customers through dancing
Mr. Chen was a 23-year-old handsome young man when he first started the business. He was very popular in the market at that time but in fact he didn’t know anyone and didn’t have regular customers like other vendors did. He thought really hard on how to break into the customer groups and came up with an interesting idea which was to learn social dance. At that time, there were three dance halls in Hualien, and Mr. Chen went to learn how to dance. He became acquainted with the elderly and slowly established his own regular customers.
How are you? It’s been a while since I last saw you
The warmhearted Mr. Chen is the “tree hole for secret” in the market. The elderly like to chat with him. If they encountered any complicated problems, they will looks for his advice. Mr. Chen has excellent memory. He can remember his customers’ preferences and he will also ask them if they’re doing well when they come to buy meat. If he didn’t see some elderly for a long time, he will be worried. Until they meet again, they usually greeted him enthusiastically by saying “How are you? It’s been a while since I last saw you.” When he heard this, sometimes it means that the elderly probably don’t have much time left. He is a sentimental person and this makes him feel sad. He cares about his customers a lot.
He always be honest to his customers
Mr. Chen used to process the meat on his own. The Chinese New Year is the busiest time, he might not be able to go home for three days! In the past, people used to cook at home so the meat business went really well. On the New Year’s Eve, the pork might sell out at 8 in the morning. If he worked hard enough, he could sell six to seven pigs a day. Mr. Chen holds on to one principle for thirty years to maintain his relationships with the customers, which is “only sell the pork that he will eat himself.” He never lies to the customers about the freshness of the meat and he only sells fresh meat. If he meets new customers, he will always enquire about their needs and help them find the right parts to ensure they can make a delicious dish.
He never gives up because persistence is the key to successful business
Mr. Chen mentioned his daily schedule. At 1:30 in the morning, he will ask people to bring pigs to the market from Fenglin slaughterhouse. The pigs will be deboned in advance. He will arrive at the market at 2:30 to process the pigs till 11, and put them into the fridge in case they go rotten. After this, he will go back to take a nap and his wife will come to the market at 11:30 and start working. In the past, they had to work till 7 or 8 in the evening. However, since fewer people cook by themselves now, he can close the stall at 6. Mr. Chen is not worried about this situation at all. He said that he won’t give up easily because persistence is the key to successful business. He will continue to find ways to improve.
The market used to be busy 24 hours; now, it needs to adapt and find solution
The first night market in Hualien was in the area of Hualien Railway Station, extending to the current Zhongshan Market. Before the underpass was built, it was a busy district throughout the whole day. In the morning, it was a traditional market. In the evening, it became a night market. One of Mr. Chen’s friend used to sell sausage, he must prepare ingredient of 36 kilograms a day. Nevertheless, ever since the underpass was constructed, people stop coming to this district. It’s hard to imagine how busy the market was from today’s situation.
In addition, the current eating and consumption habits are very different from the past. Mr. Chen thinks the traditional markets should aim their target customers at restaurants instead. The vendors should accommodate themselves to keep pace with the current development. For example, this year’s Dragon Boat Festival, Mr. Chen found that not so many people made rice dumplings on their own. In the past, every household would buy stuffing to make rice dumplings, and modern people only buy ready-made dumplings. Now he mainly sells meat to the young people who enjoy barbecue. He believes that the traditional markets should transform themselves from the old way of doing business.
Mr. Chen considers selling pork his life mission. He hopes that everyone can cook at home more often and eat authentic food. He also encourages everyone to visit Zhongshan Market. It is neat, clean and welcoming.
