Hong’s Homemade Noodles: Don’t ask for more, but for good
Hualien Markets - Exclusive Interview with Hong's Homemade Noodles
#ChongqingMarket
Text/ HUNG Tzu-Hsuan
Translation/ LIU Yi-Chun
Photography/ LEE Te-Mao
The noodles are provided on a first come first serve basis everyday
“The most important thing about cooking is freshness.”
“The materials we use are very simple: flour, water and salt. I don't use any other additives.” The noodles are pure natural materials and have a short shelf life. Therefore, Hong’s homemade noodles are always made and sold on the same day.
“I would rather not make so many noodles every day to ensure the quality, so there are usually a few noodles left at the end of the day.”
“What I want to do is a long-term business,” said Asi, the second-generation successor of Hong’s Homemade Noodles.
Overcoming challenges with determination
Forty years ago, Asi’s parents came to Chongqing Market and started to sell homemade noodles. It was quite difficult at the beginning, no matter how skillful they were, it was impossible for them to compete with the well-equipped manufacturer. The young couple almost gave up when there was no sign that the business would be improved.
“If you can't sell the food you cook, at least you can take it home and eat it yourself.” In order to raise children, no matter how hard life was, they had to keep it up. Seeing his parents working hard in the market, the son who had been helping at the stall since childhood secretly made up his mind. He decided to seek his own path. Several years later, the brilliant son completed a master's degree in construction, and his parents aged.
“My parents are getting old, but they don't want to let go of what they eventually built. That’s why I came back to take over the business.” At the age of twenty-four, Asi carried the insights and experience he gained in the construction industry, returning to the noodle stall that raised him up.
“I am who I am today because of Hong’s Homemade Noodles, so I am grateful that my parents persisted at the beginning, and overcame all the difficulties they encountered. They worked steadily and did not seek quickness. Although there were many restrictions due to the environment and equipment they had back then, they’ve been holding on to the same belief: ensuring the quality, and using the real and best ingredients. With this brand, they will always uphold the persistence.”
Let 1+1 be greater than 2.
When he took over the family business, Asi heard that the Chongqing Market was about to be renovated, so he began to plan how to bring the stall to the next level.
During the time before the renovation, they made noodles in the back and sold in the front. The heat of the machines and the chatter with the customers mingled together. The stall was always messy. Now they have a dedicated noodle making space and the refrigeration equipment and production planning are also more professional. Furthermore, they sell noodles at a separate stall, so the selling environment is tidier and more comfortable.
“By separating where you make and sell noodles can improve the quality of both spaces. Let 1+1 be greater than 2.”
At 4:30 in the morning, the Hong’s Homemade Noodles began their day at the factory next to the Chongqing gas station.
“The most important thing in manufacturing is hygiene and the freshness of the ingredients. Even if reverse osmosis is used to improve the water quality, there will still be a certain number of bacteria in the water; plus, the temperature at which flour is stirred, the bacteria at room temperature will be doubled. Therefore, I must put everything in the refrigerator right away once I finish making it to keep the bacterial count within the standard. These are the most fundamental keys. If I take control of the source, I can avoid a lot of problems that follow from the beginning."
The next step is to continue to move forward based on this standard.
“Regardless of the external environment, we must insist on being ourselves, making all choices based on the ideas that we adhere to, and constantly advancing in the process of innovation and reform. A very important customer taught me this lesson. I was deeply inspired by his words from the day I took over the business till now.” The customer's words allowed Asi to rethink the possibilities hidden in the noodle making process. He collaborated with Hualien District Agricultural Research and Extension Station to make natural pigments from unsalable fruits and vegetables that have been troublesome to local fruit farmers. He successfully developed colorful fruits and vegetables noodles, turning the unsalable fruits and vegetables, which couldn’t make it to people’s stomach, into warm and natural colors, dressing every dining table.
“Now it’s about two minutes from the noodle factory to the stall!” Taking into account both professionalism and convenience, it is like Azi built the foundation rigorously to make room for the lively and unlimited improvement, research and development. The craftsmanship passed down by the previous generation has been polished step by step, becoming simple and exquisite through time.
"Being mutual" is the most important
“The customers come to the stall every day, regardless of whether they come for noodles or not. They will bring their friends here to hang out, sometimes they simply stop by to chat... My parents always treat the customers as their own friends.”
Asi said, his parents have taught him to be “mutual.” “The customers are like my friends. I want them to have what I have. Isn’t it great to reach a win-win situation? If you are happy, then I am happy too. We will all feel comfortable.”
Hong's kind and sincere way of dealing with the world has gradually gathered a group of regular customers who are just like their friends and family.
“Sometimes when we’re too busy, some aunties nearby will put aside their work on hand, and come to our stall to help us serve customers."
Occasionally, Asi will encounter customers who bargained for lower prices, or who didn’t pay the money. However, he still treats them the same way. “I’m not bothered with such situations, perhaps my customers have some difficulties.”
Because his family had been through a tough time in the past, he is able to embrace the difficulties in life with a bigger heart. “I don’t know if he needs help, or if he is simply greedy. No matter what, I will treat him as if he is in need. I’m glad to support him. If I can provide his whole family a decent meal for this amount of money, then why not?”
“We should treat each other equally. It is important to be mutual. You will also be happier this way.”
Life in the market
“People living in the market are close and warm-hearted. As long as someone is too busy to serve customers, the neighboring stall owners will come to help. Everyone will gather to have tea and chat, even go hiking together after the market is closed.”
“The market is like a big family. Everyone is a part of it.” The stall owners at the market won’t compete with each other even if some of them are doing the same type of business. “We will support each other’s stall. It is rare that we can share the comfortable atmosphere in the market.”
His peers were confused at his decision of throwing himself into the vegetable market despite having a high degree of education. However, Asi believes that the freedom and warmth of the market offered him the irreplaceable happiness that he could never find in an ordinary company. “I am doing what I want to do and what I must do. I am happy. That’s all that matters. What other people think of it is none of my business.”
“I am content with everything I have.” Asi smiled genuinely from the bottom of his heart. The child who grew up in the market was enriched by the market, and has finally become a beautiful scene in the market.